Fursuits are (animal) mascot costumes built from fake fur and foam. They differ from regular mascot costumes with their smaller size and the higher amount of details. The most important part of a fursuit is of course the head but in addition you may order other parts such as paws for hands or feet, tail, sleeves, pants or a full bodysuit. All the parts except the bodysuit are lined from inside with thin fabric like lycra or spandex.
I build my fursuit heads completely from foam and I cover them with fake fur, minky or fleece. If the head has a moveable jaw the head will be built from Worbla plastic. For eyes you may choose cartoony static eyes or with 3d-following effect. The nose is made from either crafting clay or from fabric like pleather, minky or fleece. Tongue and lower teeth are included.
Tails have belt loops for an easy attachment and an optional ironwire core which gives life to the tail's movement. On bigger tails I use foam.
Handpaws are like large mittens with four or five fingers. The pawpads are sewn on and stuffed. The claws are soft fabric ones or made from polymer clay.
Feetpaws are built on new canvas shoes. The soles
have rubber mat firmly glued on if they are intended for outdoor use. Indoor shoes may have fabric soles.
The legs of the suit can be padded which creates an animalistic digitigrade illusion. This is a great effect in fullsuits and faun legs.
I recommend ordering multiple parts at the same time, for example a partail fursuit (head, handpaws and tail). This way I can ensure the parts are exactly the same color.
Cleaning & maintenance
Here's some general quidelines to take care of your suit so it will last beautiful as long as possible. Please contact me if you have more questions.
- Wear a cooling sportswear under your suit to
collect most of your sweat. This way you don't have to wash the suit
itself so often. You can wear a balaclava under the fursuit head for
the same reason.
- Let your fursuit head and parts cool and dry properly after every time your wear it. Never store the suit if it's even slightly damp. This is the easiest and most important way to take care of your suit!
- Disinfect the inside of the head with a small mixture of alcohol and water (wipe with a rag or use mist). Avoid rubbing the eyes or other painted parts. There are also recipies for "fursuit spray" around the internet.
- For spot removal use a rag and mild soap. Use lukewarm water since hot water will ruin the fake fur.
- The products can be washed with lukewarm water if they do NOT contain foam or wire. For example tail, handpaws and bodysuit can be washed this way either by hand or washing machine. For machine wash please use the handwash program (temperature 30 celsius). Dry the bodysuit horizontally to prevent unwanted stretching.
- Brush your suit after every wear so it will look pretty and fluffy. Especially the crotch and arpits can get matted. Metal slicker brush ment for pets is great for a fursuit as well. Do not brush too strongly as the fur will not grow back.
- Before storing the suit check that nothing is broken so that your costume is ready for the next time.
- Store your costume in a room temperature and dry place. Don't leave the head crushed under or between anything.
Tips & notes!
- It gets really hot inside a fursuit-costume and
the wearer gets out of breath quite easily even when the muzzle of
the suit is completely hollow. I don't recommend a fursuit head for a
person with breathing conditions.
- You can see out from a fursuit-head's eyes and mouth (with glass eyes you see through the black part next to the eyes). Note that the visibility is very limited and that is why I recommend having a handler with you while wearing the costume outside. The eyetype doesn't affect the visibility much.
- Notes on colors! White gets dirty very easily so you need to clean it more often than other colors. Black in turn is quite difficult to photograph and it absorbs the heat from the sun more than the other colors.
Measurements for fursuit orders
- Head: the circumference of your own head horizoltally at the level of your forehead and the circumference vertically under your chin, in front of your ears to on top of your head.
- Hand paws: the lenght from your wrist to the tip
of your longest finger and the width of your palm. Please also take a photo of your hand against a printing paper where you spread your fingers as wide apart as possible.
- Sleeves: lenght from the shoulder to your wrist, the circumference of the thickest part of your arm and the width of your shoulders.
- Feetpaws: your shoe size (EU).
- Full bodysuit: your full height, height from the floor to the beginning of your neck, height from the floor to your crotch, lenght from the shoulder to your wrist, the circumference of the thickest part of your arm, the circumference of your thigh, the width of your shoulders. the circumference of your chest, waist and hips. The most accurate fit can be achieved if you send me a tape "copy" of yourself, a duct tape dummy (tutorials for making these can be found online). In this way I can build the costume on top of the tape copy of you. For leg baddings this is essential.
- Legs: height from the floor to your waist,
height from the floor to your crotch, the circumference of your
thigh, the circumference of your waist and hips. The most accurate
fit can be achieved if you send me a tape "copy" of
yourself, a duct tape dummy (tutorials for making these can be found
online). In this way I can build the costume on top of the tape copy
of you. For leg baddings this is essential.
- Shirt: your height from the hips to the beginning of your neck, lenght from the shoulder to your wrist, the circumference of the thickest part of your arm, the width of your shoulders. the circumference of your chest, waist and hips. The most accurate fit can be achieved if you send me a tape "copy" of yourself, a duct tape dummy (tutorials for making these can be found online). In this way I can build the costume on top of the tape copy of you.